🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.